You can travel from London to Normandy, France without flying by taking a roughly two-hour train from London Waterloo to Portsmouth Harbour, then boarding a Brittany Ferries crossing to Caen or Cherbourg. The ferry crossing takes approximately five hours and is one of the most unique travel moves in Europe, especially for families.
Most people fly from London to France. It is faster and it is obvious and almost everyone does it. We did not do that. We took a train to the coast of England and then got on a boat, and it is one of the best travel decisions we made on this entire trip.
Here is how it works, and everything we wish we had known before we did it.
Part One: The Train from London to Portsmouth
The train from London Waterloo to Portsmouth Harbour takes about two hours. It is easy. Unremarkable, even. We upgraded to first class, which cost barely anything extra and gave us essentially our own little compartment. We brought snacks, played Uno with our kiddo, and before we really registered that we were doing anything interesting, we were pulling into Portsmouth.
Portsmouth is a port city on the southern coast of England. It is where you board the ferry to France. Give yourself some time to navigate from the train station to the ferry terminal.
Part Two: The Ferry
I had never been on a ferry before this trip. I did not know what to expect, and I think I imagined something small and functional. It was not that at all.
The ferry runs on multiple decks. The lower decks are for cars. The upper decks are an actual ship with restaurants, bars, a cafe, activity spaces, and passenger rooms. Our son kept calling it “the car boat,” which is accurate and also perfect.
We booked a private room. It had bunk beds, a bathroom, a little desk, and a window looking out to the water. We took the daytime crossing (rather than the overnight), which meant we arrived in the afternoon and had a room to stash our luggage, nap if we wanted, and decompress. Since we did not have a car, the room was also just practical. There was nowhere else to put our bags.
The crossing is about five hours. Our son thought the ferry was the greatest thing he had ever seen. There are kids’ activities on board (treasure hunts, face painting, things like that) so he was fully occupied. He took a nap at some point. We had a drink at the bar. It genuinely felt like the trip had already started, just on water.
One Logistics Thing Nobody Tells You
If you are on the ferry as a foot passenger (meaning you do not have a car), the disembarkation process is genuinely confusing and nobody explains it clearly in advance. When the ferry arrives, announcements direct passengers to return to their vehicles. There is no announcement for what foot passengers should do.
We wandered through multiple decks trying to figure it out. At some point someone stopped us and said, essentially, you should not be here, you were supposed to wait inside. Then someone else hustled us out saying we were late and almost missed the bus transfer to the terminal.
So here is what I want you to know: if you are not driving, wait inside the main passenger area and listen for a foot passenger announcement or ask a crew member as the crossing comes to an end. Do not follow the car instructions. You will end up on the wrong deck.
Getting from the Ferry Port to Bayeux (or Wherever You’re Going)
We arrived at the port in Caen and needed to get to Bayeux, which was about 30 minutes away by car. We took an Uber. Fair warning: it was about $75, which was more than I expected. If your budget is tight, there is a bus option, and Bayeux also has a train connection from Caen.
For families, I would still say the Uber is worth it if you are arriving with luggage and a tired kid. But factor that cost into your planning so it is not a surprise.
Is This Worth It Over Flying?
Completely. And not just because it is a cool story, though it is definitely a cool story. The ferry itself is part of the trip. I know my kiddo will talk about the car boat for years. We arrived in Normandy feeling rested rather than depleted. And the train-plus-ferry route is genuinely scenic in a way no airport ever is.
If Europe is on your list and you are planning any time in Normandy or Brittany, I cannot recommend this route enough. It takes a little longer. It is completely worth it. Want help with the logistics? That’s exactly what my travel planning services are for. I would love to help your next vacation a memorable one.
London to Normandy by Ferry FAQ
How long does the London to Normandy ferry take?
The full journey from London takes roughly 7 hours. The train from London Waterloo to Portsmouth Harbour is about 2 hours, and the ferry crossing from Portsmouth to Caen or Cherbourg is approximately 5 hours. Add transit time at each end and plan for a full travel day.
Which ferry company runs London to Normandy?
Brittany Ferries operates the Portsmouth to Caen and Portsmouth to Cherbourg routes. They offer both daytime and overnight crossings, with private cabins available for both.
Do I need a car to take the Normandy ferry from Portsmouth?
No. You can travel as a foot passenger with luggage and book a private cabin or seat on board. If you are traveling without a car, book a cabin for the crossing, especially if you are traveling with children or have a lot of luggage. Note that disembarkation instructions for foot passengers are not well posted, so ask a crew member as you approach the port.
Is the Portsmouth to Normandy ferry family-friendly?
Very. The ferry has kids’ activities on board including treasure hunts and face painting, family-friendly dining options, and private cabin rooms with bunk beds. For families, it is actually one of the most enjoyable ways to cross the Channel.
How do I get from the Caen ferry port to Bayeux?
From the Caen ferry terminal, Bayeux is about 30 minutes by car. Uber is the most convenient option (budget around $60-75 USD). There are also bus connections and a train from Caen’s main station to Bayeux if you prefer public transport.
Becca Marsh is a certified travel advisor affiliated with Fora Travel and the voice behind Wanders & Wink, based in Grants Pass, Oregon. A lifelong traveler who has explored every U.S. state and dozens of countries from the street food stalls of Vietnam to the Michelin-starred restaurants of Paris, she specializes in food-forward family travel that actually delivers on the fantasy. She takes her own family on at least six trips a year (research, she calls it…) and brings that firsthand experience to every itinerary she builds for her clients. She believes great travel is accessible to everyone and will always tell you exactly where to go and what to order.
